Last year the Big Apple, this year Beantown!

Sagamore Bridge at the exit of the Cape Cod Canal

It was a calm, mostly overcast day for our 75-mile run from New Bedford to Boston. 

The only excitement was transiting the wide Cape Cod Canal that separates Cape Cod from mainland Massachusetts. Depending on the time and tide, the current can be a friend or foe. We were against it, and had to overcome a 4-5 knot head current for the ten or so miles.

Upon entering Cape Cod Bay to transit to Boston Harbor, we successfully navigated fields of lobster floats. Unlike the crab and lobster fisheries in Florida, this fishery uses two floats to signal the ends of a string of pots strung like pearls between them. Deep draft boats can get entangled in the lines and a engine can be torqued to stalling if a line gets wrapped on the shaft. This is incentive to keep a "sharp eye" and focused helm.

Boston appeared on the horizon and as we approached traffic picked up and became a bit confusing. Fortuitously, we followed a Harbor Pilot boat returning to the harbor.




On the way we were stopped by the USCG with a friendly warning about the harbor being a no wake zone.



Boston Pops

After a bit of orienting to this new big city and planning our week's explorations, on the 3rd of July, we set out to check out the Esplanade for the Boston Pops 4th of July Extravaganza. The anchorage and route to the Charles River looked promising and we decided to return that evening for the dress rehearsal concert.

The headliners were Queen Latifah and Arlo Guthrie with Texas Tenors, Amanda Mena, and the Navy Sea Shanty Chorus. The Youth Poet Laureate, Amanda Gorman, and Boston Pops performed a very moving piece of her poetry set against the Battle Hymn of the Republic. Tears for the past and present, but hope for the future that such a young visionary has a depth of understanding and optimism for a future.

“In the declaration’s pages, we write a new order for the ages,” 

“Where out of many, we are one,

Bright as sun, and bold as an eagle

 A nation of all people, by all people, for all people,”

~ Amanda Gorman, Youth Poet Laureate

Fireworks from the Charles River

At noon on the 4th, we set out to the Charles River to claim an anchor spot. We were delighted to see the USS Constitution coming back to her wharf with security and escorts of dozens of boats and harbor cruise ships. Since the venerable ship has been in dry dock for the past few years, this was a maiden voyage, powered by tugs, back into the harbor. A fireboat displayed arcs of streaming spray.

 

Then, on through locks to pass through the dam on the Charles and under highway and railroad bridges. One bridge had a clearance of 15 ft which we could pass under with our VHF antennas lowered.

 

We found a great spot to anchor, close to the Hatch Memorial Shell near the edge of the security zone. (Security Zones were established along the edge of the river so no one could go ashore.) As the day progressed more boats joined the anchorage. One Trump2020 flag-flying boat had a prime spot all to themselves. We suspect in deeply blue Boston, other boaters, like us, were not interested in associating with the divisive politicization of an event celebrating American unity. All other boats flew the colors of the USA. There were so many people in kayaks and canoes floating in the river enjoying the show.



We could hear the concert well over the speakers lining the Charles River. For us the Navy Sea Shanty Chorus and the poet laureate, Amanda Gorman, were high points. Then the traditional 1812 Overture, with cannons!, follow by the most spectacular fireworks we've ever witnessed!



We had to spend the night at anchor, as did most of the other boats. The locks were closed from 7:45 pm to 2 a.m. on the 5th. So, while we could have gone back to the marina after 2, we surely did not want to navigate through anchored boats, bridges, locks, and Boston harbor at night! One of the bridges (for the Amtrak train) stays closed during rush hours and will only open after 9:15 a.m. At 4' vertical clearance, that was the determining factor of when we could leave the Charles River and head back to our slip at Charlestown Marina. At 9 a.m. we were in line to transit the 1-mile route under the Longfellow Bridge, the Craigie Bridge, the Amtrak bridge, the Storrow River Bridge, Route 93 Bridge, the New Charles River Dam and locks, and the Charlestown Bridge,  back to the marina.

   



NOTE: A video clip is posted at the end of this blog. It probably will not load on emails, so look at it on the website or FB Friends may see a few clips of the spectacular finale!

It's hot but warm relations 

On the 5th, we were thrilled to visit with Lee's cousin, Nate and wife Lisa, who drove down from New Hampshire. We visited the Harvard Arnold Arboretum and met their daughter Faye and son-in-law Andy. It was good to see them again this year following a nice reacquaintance at the NY Botanical Garden last year on the same day. Faye and Andy live close to the park and guided us through the shady forest trails. Then we visited the million-dollar bonzai display with some of the specimens having been established in the early 1800s! The oldest on display is from 1777!

Still so much to do...

We have walked and walked and still have so much to do here. The Freedom Trail, the USS Constitution, New England Aquarium, and Bunker Hill. And we look forward to visiting with Carlos and his family later in the week. Carlos is the most awesome guitarist we met while he was completing his PhD in ethnomusicology at FSU. We will take a boat ride with his wife Nadia and children.

A note on the Charlestown Marina

We had made reservations at the Charlestown Marina months ahead to assure a slip for the 4th of July.  Seems the higher rate for the holiday is unwarranted because there is plenty of space for boats. Located at the Navy Shipyard it is a fairly nice marina, with good docks, friendly staff, with clean renovated heads and showers that are completely inaccessible to persons with mobility disabilities. Disappointing to see such disregard for the ADA which was underscored by another transient sailor having to wait outside the office for his girlfriend to check in. Props to him for his generous tolerance  "I'll just use the head and shower on our boat."

07.06.2019